Diary
We took Shackletons last walk from Fortuna Bay over to Stromness. When the Endurance got stuck in the ice he took two men, Tom Crean and Frank Worsley, and went to find help. At the end of this walk is a whaling station where he managed to raise the alarm and return for the rest of his men.
It was great, there was lots of snow and ice and whilst it was chilly it is now the summer. Shakleton and his men came through here in the winter, it was bitterly cold. It was a very spiritual walk and i felt energised and excited to be there. They say that even though there were only three men walking a fourth man was seen walking down the hill with them.
We took some time out for a snowball fight and then headed down to the whaling station. We had to stay 200 meters away as there is asbestos in the buildings.
In the afternoon we landed in Gryviken and went to Shackletons grave. John Harrison, the shops historian, gave a eulogy for `the boss`. John is very passionate about Shackleton, it was emotional.
Jen had told me about a helicopter that had gone down in the war. It was an Argentine helicopter shot down by the British. When they got to the wreckage the pilots were still alive, they shot them. The helicopter is still there, nothing moved. There are lots of little pieces of debris that could easily have been taken as souvenirs but they are there scattered around the body of the helicopter. Military personel have engraved their names all over this bullet filled shell. When Jen was on HMS Endurance, some of the guys went to write their names. Jen told them she didn`t want to be a part of it, it was a grave, when they came back they told her that her name was already on it.
I went to check, and it was`t. There was no shortage of names but Chris and i browsed up and down. I know Jen will be very pleased.
It was a nice walk up to the site, it was nice to get away from the rest of the group for a while. Nice as everyone is, we walk around like red coated penguins sometimes. Many photos have little red jackets in the backround and it can be a little frustrating.
Had a good look around the museum and sent a few post cards.
We had a BBQ this evening and invited all the locals and some yachties that were moored up in the bay. Great evening.
Baby fur seals hiding out in the tussac grass. These things can really shift and will give you a nasty bite. Sometimes they are so well hidden and look like stones so you have to keep a sharp look out. 
Love this photo, up close with the king penguins. This is one of Ursulas pictures.
Heading back from the sea, these penguins will probably be coming back from feeding.
They will be getting ready to feed this little lot. Baby kings in the creche!
A little strage looking but lovable. The baby king penguin.
and if you sit still long enough they will come right up to you. Penguins are not afraid of humans, they are curious. They know that their predator are in the water not on the land.
Starting off on the hike. Getting on to the beach was intersting. These fur seals are warming up for breeding season. Testing out their strength and getting a preview of who might the strongest. When the females arrive they will be fighting for beach territory, it will be serious.
Looking back, from the top of the hill, towards the ship.
The walk really was beautiful, there was snow, ice and waterfalls.
Our own special breed of penguin, the red coats. About 68 people completed the walk. Taking into consideration that the average age was about 70 it was quite impressive.
Sara, Michael, Julie and Chris at the top of the pass looking down towards the whaling station.
Antarctic ducks, i think....
All made it to the top. This really was a great group of people, i enjoyed sharing this experience with them.
Reindeer were introduced to the Island as a food source. There is a debate about whether they should keep them or not. They are eating their way around the island and, some say, causing a lot of damage.
The whaling station at Stromness.
Now home only to the seals.
Grytviken (Swedish for 'Pot Cove') is the principal settlement in the United Kingdom territory of South Georgia in the South Atlantic. It was so named by a 1902 Swedish surveyor who found old English try pots used to render seal oil at the site. It is the best harbour on the island, consisting of a bay (King Edward Cove) within a bay (Cumberland East Bay). The site is very sheltered, provides a substantial area of flat land suitable for building on, and has a good supply of fresh water.It is also the home to the grave of Ernest Shackleton and many whalers and sealers.
John Harrison giving an emotional eulogy to Ernest Shackleton `the boss`. We toast him with Jim Beam, not very classy but did the job. Shackleton points south and has a nine pointed star on it, this had been very particularly Shackleton's own symbol in his lifetime. Shackleton had a strong streak of superstition in him. He noted that the figure 9 recurred strangely in his life.
John Harrison giving an emotional eulogy to Ernest Shackleton `the boss`. We toast him with Jim Beam, not very classy but did the job. Shackleton points south and has a nine pointed star on it, this had been very particularly Shackleton's own symbol in his lifetime. Shackleton had a strong streak of superstition in him. He noted that the figure 9 recurred strangely in his life. Shackleton died of a heart attack and was being returned to his wife in the UK. She sent a telegram saying take hime back to where he belongs. She didn`t want him, he had become a drinker and fond of the ladies, not sure that is the official version but some belive the truth. So here he lies in Grytvicken.
On the back of the grave, by Robert Browning, Shackletons favorite poet ´i hold that a man should survive to the uttermost for his lifes set prize´.
The Argentinian helicopter, full of bullet holes and engraved with the names of military personel.
Some of the names, i think i was on the Endurance with this engraved PTI. I joined the ship shortly after this to make the return journey to the UK.
Grytviken whaling station. The only one you can actually walk around. It has been cleared of all asbestos. Lots of large pieces of equipment and big drums, for boiling the blubber.
Small church, used for deaths and mariages. Long way to come to get married but it would be worth it. Deaths were mainly sealers, whalers and explorers. No christenings as there are no children allowed on the island, they are not set up to deal with emergencies.
The museum. Well maintained and very interesting.
Inside the museum, whale parts all bagged up and ready to go. Some companies still use the oil/blubber from whales. I need to do a little research and make sure i am not buying into it. I think a car company uses it for something.
There is a little post office, and the job is advertised every year. Ainsley has been there for the last four years and said if you want the job you will have to fight her. She is lucky enough to share a house with the taxidermist. She shared some very interesting stories, tales of dead animals i the bath, and for that reason i would not want her job.
King penguins, they are everywhere, but i don`t think i will ever tire of them. Wrecked whaling ship in the backround.
A perfect end to the day, a BBQ. Brian the chef, produced some spectacular food, which is still being fashioned by me!
MV POLAR STAR SHIPS LOG
On the back of the grave, by Robert Browning, Shackletons favorite poet ´i hold that a man should survive to the uttermost for his lifes set prize´.
The Argentinian helicopter, full of bullet holes and engraved with the names of military personel.
Some of the names, i think i was on the Endurance with this engraved PTI. I joined the ship shortly after this to make the return journey to the UK.
Grytviken whaling station. The only one you can actually walk around. It has been cleared of all asbestos. Lots of large pieces of equipment and big drums, for boiling the blubber.
Small church, used for deaths and mariages. Long way to come to get married but it would be worth it. Deaths were mainly sealers, whalers and explorers. No christenings as there are no children allowed on the island, they are not set up to deal with emergencies.
The museum. Well maintained and very interesting.
Inside the museum, whale parts all bagged up and ready to go. Some companies still use the oil/blubber from whales. I need to do a little research and make sure i am not buying into it. I think a car company uses it for something.
There is a little post office, and the job is advertised every year. Ainsley has been there for the last four years and said if you want the job you will have to fight her. She is lucky enough to share a house with the taxidermist. She shared some very interesting stories, tales of dead animals i the bath, and for that reason i would not want her job.
King penguins, they are everywhere, but i don`t think i will ever tire of them. Wrecked whaling ship in the backround.
A perfect end to the day, a BBQ. Brian the chef, produced some spectacular food, which is still being fashioned by me!MV POLAR STAR SHIPS LOG
Tuesday 11th November - Fortuna Bay & Stromness, Grytviken &KingEdward Point, South Georgia
Time: 12:00
Latitude: 54° 09.7' S
Longitude: 36° 42.4' W
Wind: Force 3 North West
Sea Conditions: Smooth (wave height 0.10 – 0.50m)
Pressure: 1009 mb
Temperature: 7ºC
Our wakeup call was slightly earlier than usual this morning, the decision to undertake a prebreakfast landing at Whistle Cove, Fortuna Bay meant that we needed to be dressed and waiting at 11 the gangway for 06:00. It was a bright morning; every now and again patches of blue sky broke through the cloud lighting up the numerous icebergs that lay grounded in the bay. Zodiacs ferriedus from ship to shore where Chris and Joel met the boats in chest high waders, necessary attire for any serious South Georgia shore landing team. Ian briefed us onshore and explained that the expedition team had had to move a large elephant seal off our landing site as well as several rather aggressive male fur seals. He gave us some advice as to the best way to ward off these seals, clacking two stones together is a tried and tested method, but if that fails, the best course of action is to back away slowly and choose a different route. A short walk across the outwash plain of the König Glacier brought us to a king penguin colony fringed by nutrient enriched herbs and grasses which offer grazing for reindeer. Although this was only a small colony compared to those we would see in St Andrew’s Bay and Gold Harbour, it was a great place to experience our first king penguins at close quarters.
Those who had planned to undertake the hike from Fortuna Bay to Stromness (affectionately referred to as the Shackleton Hike) were ferried across the bay by Zodiac and dropped at the start point. The remainder of us were taken back to the ship to enjoy the scenic navigation around the bay into Stromness Harbour. Soon 68 of us were briefed on the shore before setting off to walk thelast 5 kilometres of the epic 36 hour crossing of South Georgia undertaken by Tom Crean, Frank Worsley and Sir Ernest, ending in Stromness on 20th May 1916. Once the fur seals in the tussac grass had been identified and asuitable route picked, we headed up the mountain side following our hike leader John Harrison. Conditions were perfect, the wind from behind pushing us upslope and a thin cruston the snow giving good purchase to our boots.The first part of the walk contained most of the hard work, rising to a ridge above Crean Tarn, at this time of the year completely iced over, at a little over 300 metres. The scenery that surrounded us as we crossed the saddle was enhanced by the pure white snow that clung to the mountainsides, offering plenty of fantastic photo opportunities. Before we began the descent, Ursula organised a group photo of all the hikers which was met with much enthusiasm. After another five minutes of walking we came to the spot where Shackleton saw the famous Z-shaped sandstone strata in a high headland; he knew at this point that he stood above Stromness. We looked down over the glaciated valley below, Stromness whaling station sitting on the shore of thebay in the distance, and watched the Polar Star motoring towards her new anchor point. John Harrison explained the route to the landing site and allowed us to take our time and make our ownway back. The rest of the expedition team were waiting at the beach, creating a safe space landing spot amid the fur seals. Gary led a short walk for those who had opted out of the main hike. It followed the perimeter of the old whaling station (access within 200 metres is prohibited due to therisk of flying debris and asbestos) to a small cemetery, the resting place of whalers and ship repairers who lost their life in this treacherous place. Instead of driving straight back to the ship the Zodiac drivers hugged the shore in front of the old station on a short cruise. This gave an opportunity to ask any final questions and photograph the ruins that sat behind the elephant seal laden beach, including the Manager’s office where Shackleton was welcomed back to the world after an absence of 18 months.
It already seemed like a full day but it was only lunch time. A little after three we glided into Grytviken Harbour, anchored the ship and were Zodiaced to the shore by the cemetery where a number of elephant seals were enjoying a fine wallow. There were spots of rain in the air as we approached the little cemetery containing the final resting place of Sir Ernest Shackleton, who died here in the harbour on 5 January 1922, once again sailing to Antarctica. John Harrison spoke a moving eulogy and we drank a toast with whiskey to ‘The Boss’. May he enjoy his rest among the old sailors, still looking south.
We were then free to explore the ruins, museum and shop, the restored Norwegian Church and the old catcher boats lying in the shallows. Many of us took the opportunity to write postcards and send them from the Post Office at King Edward Point, a short Zodiac ride away. As we made ourway back to the ship it was clear that preparations had already been made for tonight’s meal; chairs and tables had been arranged on top deck and a huge BBQ setup outside the observation lounge on deck 5. Glancing back towards the mouth of the bay we were treated to dramatic stacks of lenticular (lens shaped) clouds,a product of the prevailing westerlies as they are lifted over the mountains. The smell of the cooking meat had the Zodiac drivers desperate to return to the ship and as the last passengers were welcomed aboard by Natasha on the gangway, the BBQ got underway. Brian, our head chef, and his team put on a fantastic spread, the ribs and king prawns were particular favourites. We had invited Grytviken shore staff and some visiting yachters to join us for the evening; the observation lounge was full of laughter and story telling as we made new friends, Reuben and Ruel keeping us well oiled from behind the bar.
No comments:
Post a Comment