Day 14 - Half Moon and Deception Islands

Day 14 - 17th Nov

My Diary - Lost

I know that my diary started every day `this is my favorite day`or `this was the best day` This day was no exception. This was another totally amazing day.

I remeber thinking about how i was going to make this experience more permenant. My brain has been working overtime, i feel constantly inspired and i feel like i am about to explode.

An Argentinian research station

Chinstrap penguin carrying stones to his nest. It looks like such an effort, one has to resist the tmptation to help them out a little!

how i managed to stop myself from picking up one of these beauties for a cuddle i have no idea

Mike with his harem all with pigtails, at his request.

Mike, this is how he spent most of his time at Half Moon, I think the ships food had caught up with him. He was getting pretty mad so we left him to struggle his way back to the ship.

giving a little whistle

just stadning around looking gorgeous

Thinking about Christmas and trying to get that Christmas card shot. It was a good contender but the opportunities just kept getting better.

Crabeater seal, i don`t think they actually eat crabs., but this one has certainly just had a feast on something.

Finally my excess of food on the ship kicks in and i find myself up to bottom in snow. It was just hillarious. Those on the lighter side, Chris, didn´t sink so i gave her a little helping hand, she ended up waiste deep!

Being so close to nature still fills me with this feeling of incredible happiness. A month after returning i still get emotional about moment like this.

Very quickly learning that the fastest way from up is down on your bottom.

Loving the chinstraps.

GEOLOGY OF DECEPTION ISLAND

Deception Island is only the top of a previously much larger volcano that is mostly submerged. Port Foster (max. depth 190 m) is a breached caldera that formed when the centre of thevolcano collapsed below sea level after a huge prehistoric explosive eruption. Eruptions havecontinued at irregular intervals, the first historically recorded by Wilkes in 1842 who saw "theentire south rim of the crater on fire", and the latest episodes occurring in 1967, 1969, and1970. The 1967 eruption destroyed a Chilean scientific station at Pendulum Cove and a Britishstation at Whalers Bay and required evacuation of the bases under emergency conditions. Theeruption in 1969 destroyed both the Chilean and British bases, and the whaling station, and thefive British personnel were evacuated hurriedly. No permanent occupants live on the island,but both Argentina and Spain have summer stations there.

Neptune’s Bellows. Careful manovers were requied to get us into Deception Island

Which wearn`t made any easier by having to dodge some National Geographic divers in the water. One day day i wll reaturn and this photo will be me.

Whalers Bay

Looking down over Neptunes Window

There was a lepard seal on the beach, we stayed within 5 meters but even that felt a little to close.

As he dissapeared into the water i felt nervous. We were about to swim, i had my mask and snorkle at the ready.

As he looked back at us i decided that there was no way i was going to snorkle and risk bumping into this guy. It would be a quick dip!

The beach masters digging out the whole which would soon be filled with geothermal waters

Stripping of the layers and adding a few more. Many went in with their bikinis and some with just their pant, not me. I have been carrying round a 2mm rash vest and, despite critisism, i was wearing it.

First in, and second in as moral support for Julie.

Mad dash for the hot pool.

And it really was toasting. Celia, Sara and Julie enjoying being the first in the pool.

Risto, a crazy Norwegian guy, came prepared with his had and his paper, great entertainments and huge laughs had by all.

And back in, this time for 30 seconds, trying to get the record for the longest time in the water. Sadley the lepoard seal played on my mind to much and i jumped back into the safety of the hot pool.

Appreciation for the beachmasters. We have all become good friends and it has made the trip even more fun.

That evening it was back tothe bar for a few hands of cards

and a cuddle with Ken. He is 80 and here on his own having a trip of a life time. It was so nice to share this experience with him.

Monday 17th November - Half Moon and Deception Islands

Time: 12:00Latitude: 62° 35.1' S

Longitude: 59° 53.2' W

Wind: Force 5 South West

Sea Conditions: Slight (wave height 0.50 – 1.25m)

Pressure: 1009 mb

Temperature: 2ºC

Bright sunlight and cold winds greeted us this morning as we arrived at out anchor point off Half Moon Bay. The snow covered hills and mountains were lit to majestic effect by the sun; the blues and greens of the sea contrasting with the whites to create stunning vistas and great photo opportunities. Nestled between Livingston and Greenwich Islands, Half Moon Island is home to approximately 3300 pairs of chinstrap penguins, some Antarctic (blue-eyed) shags and gentoo penguins. There was time to relax after breakfast, the good weather bringing most of us out on deck. The landing operation ran quickly thanks to the short distance from ship to shore and soon we found ourselves on shore.

John Sparks had already flagged out an appropriate route acrossthe island, avoiding major nesting areas, and along with John Harrison had located 5 large seals (3 Weddells and 2 Crabeaters). We madeour way across the island, stopping every nowand again to allow a convoy of chinstraps to cross our path. The snow was deep in places and some were finding it difficult not to sink through the crust up to their knees with everystep. Body weight to shoe size ratio was all important in the success of trips to the end of the snowladen spit, the little chinstrap penguins watching as laughter filled the air.

The weather was so beautiful that many of us stayed on the beach until the last Zodiac was called to shore. The Captain now had to make the three hour navigation to Deception Island, which culminates in a remarkably tricky manoeuvre through Neptune’s Bellows; the small pass into the island. The bridge had justreceived information that the National Geographic ship Endeavour had one of its Zodiacs and several scuba divers in the Bellows, which clearly complicated the task. Captain Jacek took us through the narrow gap between the submerged Raven Rock, hidden from sight, and the towering Cathedral Crags, with precision; it was a privilege to watch him and his crew working together.

Zodiacs ferried us to shore in the usual fashion although conditions at the beach were far from typical. Stream rose out of the ground all around us as we set foot on thevolcanic gravel, a constant reminder that we were inside the crater of an active volcano. A walk was organised up to Neptune’s Window, led by John Sparks,where the island’s discoverer, Nathaniel Palmer, climbed looking for birds’ eggs and found a view which is fabled to have shown him the continental land of the peninsula. Another hike, led by Gary, went out to the old BAS hangarthen up to the top of Ronald’s Hill.

John Harrison spent his time around the historic ruins offering interpretations and answering our questions. While we were all enjoying the various activities on offer, Chris and Joel could be found digging a hole of Homeric proportions onthe shoreline. This was duly filled by the geothermal waters that lay just below the surface and alarge hot pool was born. Entrance to the pool was conditional; potential bathers must first fullyimmerse themselves in the Antarctic waters of the bay, a rule which was ruthlessly enforced by the proud diggers. Absolute chaos unfolded; quick dashes into the water for photos were accompanied by screams as the true temperature of the water was realised. Risto gave us all a laugh; sitting inthe pool with his hat and newspaper and Jerry holds the record for the longest time in the water.