Antarctic - Day 1 - Decisions decisions

I had a flight booked from Buenos Aires to Ushaia. I was planning to spend a few days in Ushuaia and then head up into deepest darkest Patagonia for some serious yomping.

I had booked into the hostel, unpacked and was wondering around when i came across an agency for Antarctic tours. The books say that the boats don´t sail until the end of November, love the lonely planet, so i wasn´t planning on looking for a last mintue deal. Out of curiosity i poped in and there was a boat leaving that day.

It looked amazing, Falklands, South Georgia, South Shetlands and the Antarctic Peninsula. With the ship leaving in 4 hours i thought it would be a bargain price and i had it in my head that i was going. When Daniella told me the price i sat with my head in my hands, it was cosiderabley less than the full price but it was still expensive. I left to think about it and called Jen, a friend from the Navy days who had done two trips there on HMS Endurance. Unable to get hold of Jen i call her husband Paul who said ' go, i know what she will say, you have to go' . So with that advice i went back in and booked.

Two hours later and i was on the ship. MV Polar Star http://www.polarstarexpeditions.com/.

I decided to do a day by day account of the trip, i hope you don´t get bored. I wrote a diary, which i will share with you, then i will post some photos and then i will post the ships log. The log was written by Joel Turner, one of the staff memebers, it was really good and a great account of the trip.

This really was the most amazing thing i have done in my life so far and i hope you enjoy me sharing it with you.

The Polar Star

My Diary

I am running round like a headless chicken trying to get a few minute bits and bobs but finally i am checking in.

It was brilliant from the begining. Welcomed, bags taken and shown to my cabin.

I have my own room, sort off, the ships Doctor has all her things in here and pops in and out but i am sure i can live with that.

To start us off we had our welcome briefing and safety brief, we set sail at 6pm, had a life boat drill and then settled down t a 5 course dinner, which was far from the cheap food i have been eating. All the single people ended up together. They all have interesting stories including Jill, all her luggage had been lost in Madrid and had to run around Ushuaia buying enough clothing to get here through the next three weeks. She had just retired as a nurse and this was her gift to herself, a very stressful start but all she did was smile and laugh about it. Everyone was quick to offer her items, which was an early sign of what lovely people we were travelling with. As a backpaker all i had to offer was moisturiser, much needed.

After dinner we went out on to the deck to take in the view. Passed Puerto William, which is the most southern city in the South. We were looking for penguins, but non found. This is day 1 of an amazing 19 days, BRILLIANT!!

Great view of the Ship with the mountains in the backround, oh and the rainbow.

MV Polar Star

Loading the luggage

We have lift off. Bringing in the ropes

kelp and dolphin gulls -As the ship moves off it stirs up the bottom. These birds are collecting muscles, dropping them from a height on the jetty, to break the shells, and eating the flesh

Safety drill. All outside with life jackets waiting for a role call

The Beagle Channel

All ships have to be guided out by a qualified Pilot, this was his ride home attached to the back of the ship.

LOG OF MV POLAR STAR
The Great Antarctic Expedition
4TH – 22ND NOVEMBER 2008

Written by Joel Turner
Edited: John Harrison
Species List: Ursula Tscherter

MV Polar Star
The Great Antarctic Expedition
Captain Jacek Majer
Chief Engineer Kedziora Waclaw
Chief Officer Jozef Wojcik
Second Officer Joseph Banate
Third Officer Jerry Malapad
Hotel Manager Natasha Hanson
Head Chef Brian Hanson
Doctor Judy Forbes

Expedition Leader Ian Shaw
Expedition Staff

Chris Bateman
John Harrison
Gary Kochert
Joyce Kochert
John Sparks
Megan Tierney
Ursula Tscherter
Joel Turner

Tuesday, 4th November - Leaving Ushuaia
Time: 12:00
Latitude: 54° 48.6' S
Longitude: 68°17.9' W
Wind: Variable
Sea Conditions: Smooth (wave height 0.10 – 0.50m)
Pressure: 994 m
Temperature: 6ºC

Ushuaia, somewhat infamous for its changeable weather, held true to that reputation today. Someof us approached the Polar Star leisurely as she lay in dock bathed in bright sunshine, others being forced to hurry aboard amid flurries of snow and cutting winds only minutes later. One thing was for certain however; an air of excitement and anticipation surrounded our ship as her Captain and crew made final preparations for a 19 day expedition that would cover over
3000 nautical miles across some of the worlds’ most unpredictable seas.

Once everyone was aboard and luggage had been distributed to cabins, Ian, our Expedition Leader met us in the observation lounge for an initial briefing. He introduced us to Captain Jacek who welcomed us aboard and led a toast to the voyage. The Expedition Staff then introduced
themselves and gave brief indications of their specialist interests and experience. The First Officer Jozef followed with a safety briefing, highlighting a few important rules which would help ensure a safe trip for all. All briefings concluded in time for us to watch the ship leave the dock just after 18:00, churning up the water as she manoeuvred which created a banquet of small crabs for opportunist seabirds including kelp and dolphin gulls. At 18:30 we had the mandatory lifeboat drill which brought us out onto deck in bright orange life jackets, mustering under the lifeboats as would be expected in an emergency. It was then time to find the dining room and enjoy our first meal onboard.

The last hours of the day were spent navigating the Beagle Channel; so named after the ship which circumnavigated the world between 1831 and 1836 with a certain young man on board, learning his trade and leaving his indelible mark in history: Charles Darwin. The Ushuaia port authority supplied a pilot and boat to navigate us safely through the channel whilst the expedition staff helped to spot wildlife from the bridge, Magellanic penguins and king shags were seen. John Harrison pointed out the southernmost town in the world; Puerto Williams. Originally a naval base founded in 1952, the settlement now has a population of 2000 people including two of the last fluent speakers of the language spoken by the Yámana Canoe Indians. This tribal group was encountered by Darwin during his time in the Beagle Channel. John went on to explain how Gable Island opposite Puerto Williams was central to the creation myth of the Selk’nam Indians. They believe that this small island floated above a huge flood that covered the Earth and as a result all life derives from survivors that took refuge there.

USHUAIA
Ushuaia lies at the extreme tip of South America, on the island of Tierra del Fuego, the land of fire. Its name is derived from a Yaghan word (the language of the nomadic Yámana Canoe Indians) meaning “inner harbour to the westward.”. In 1906 the Argentine state founded a penal institution in Ushuaia largely for hardened criminals. The prisoners were responsible for most of the pre-1940 construction of the town. The prison ceased operation and was incorporated into the Naval Base in 1940. Ushuaia now has a population of about 60,000 permanent residents. They are descendants of English missionaries who stayed on as farmers, of Yugoslavians and
Romanian miners, of sailors from Spain and Italy, who signed off or jumped ship here, of Chileans who came looking for work, of a few Germans, and just a handful of people bearing some blood from the veins of the native Indian population. This is the southernmost city in the world, and it boasts graceful frame houses, selfmade cabins and modern concrete buildings; but they all have the same roofs. There are no tiles here, only metal sheeting that is bolted down. The slopes are now being developed with smart hotels and ski facilities.

A spectacular chain of mountains, the Cerro Martial, rises behind the town, to the north. The ruined forest behind the town was caused by a terrible fire in 1918. The fire began to the west of town and raged eastward, so out of control that the townspeople thought they might have to take to the sea in boats. Doused by a torrential rain, the fire, which had lasted three months, was so intense that even the tiny trees were destroyed and the ground left open to erosion.

The Captain issued a warning that we would likely hit heavy swells as we left the shelter of the
channel and suggested that all possessions should be stowed to limit damage. Doctor Judy spent
time visiting each table at dinner, explaining the different types of anti sea sickness medication she had onboard and offering advice to those who were concerned about the crossing. Those of us who were still awake at 23:00 noticed the point at which the Polar Star entered open water as she began to roll. Even though we were in strong winds, the ship’s movements were lessened as we had a following sea thus were not forced to battle the swells.