Peru and Machu Picchu

In and around Cuzco

A 27 hour bus ride from Ecuador to Peru and a very early morning flight from Lima i arrive in Cuzco with Elly and meet up with Dan and Brian. We wondered around Cuzco, an amazing city, trying to find the best company to hike up to Machu Picchu with. We were recommended a company by the South American Explorers, so felt good with our choice. You can pay anything from 170USD to 450USD and there really does´t appear to be much difference. Booked for a few days time we head out to explore and run into a few people we met in Ecuador. By the end of the day we have managed to fill our tour with people that we know, bonus!

Brian and I were both suffering with the Altitude so we have given ourselves a few days to rest and aclimatise. Easy place to relax, buzzing and friendly with lots of churches, museums and ruins.

Some History: On May 21, 1950, an earthquake seriously damaged more than half the buildings of Cusco, Peru. It occurred without warning of foreshocks and was followed by only a few weak aftershocks. The epicentral area, within which buildings were extensively damaged, covered only about 12 square kilometers within the Cusco Basin, and minor damage was limited to a surrounding area of less than 500 square kilometers.

Plaza De Armas. Colonial arcades surround the plaza, which was the heart of the ancient Inca Capital.

The Basilica Cathedral. This magnificent building was damaged by the earthquakeand the gospel tower was seriously put at risk, due to the tremendous weight of the ´Maria Angola´bell. The restoration work was undertaken thanks to the Peruvian and Spanish governments. This really was spectacular.

Anyone with a weak stomach may want to skip the next photo!

I have many many more photos but this was the least disturbing for anyone that is easily disturbed. A local dish, therefore must be tried, is Guinea Pig. This little chap is roasted, and was in fact very tastey. There isn´t much meat on it so we ordered one between three and had another meal, just in case we didn´t like it. The presentation is a little off putting but i would eat it again.
As a warm up for a Salkantay treak up to Machu Picchu we hiked some local ruins, Saqsaywamán, Q´enqo and Pukapukara. Not very exciting but it wa a nice day out with great views over Cuzco.

Dan, Brian and Sara at the ruins.

Elly, Dan, Sara and Brian.

I don´t normally take photos of local, unless i have asked them, but this was a sneaky shot of the tiniest lady with her Alpaca, talking to Elly. Just for the record we ate Alpaca and llama as well!

So, to the trek. 5 days 4 nights on the second most popular route, the most popular being the Inca trail.

Day one

We started at 4am and drove up to the beginning of Salkantay National park. The hike was easy, most of it on a road which was a little disapointing. We were quite a fit group and it became very clear very quickly that our guide and assistant guide were not up to leading us.

First peak to the Salkantay. Located northwest of Cusco, Nevado de Salkantay, the cordillera's tallest peak, is at the eastern end of the chain and rises to 6271 meters above sea level. The name Salkantay means 'Savage Mountain' which may refer to the swirling clouds that rise up from the jungle lowlands and engulf the peak. We didn´t climb this, we just went through the pass at about 4,800 meters

Sara, Dan, Elly and Brian at our first lunch stop. The first of many dissapointing meals.

The guide on the left, this is where he got dropped off in the minibus and waited for us. Elly, Sara, Dan, Gyri and Aril taking shelter from the rain.

Enjoying the views, Elly and Sara. Elly is really into the outdoors so, much to the dissmay of the guide, we pushed each other along.

The first camp. Getting closer to the Salkantay, each step i just want to climb it.

Even though the first day was easy i was not feeling great. I was fast developing a cold, cough thing. I had been supressing it since the Galapagos, so that i could dive. It was cold at the first camp because were were surrounded by snow top mountains. We would pass through a many different climates on this trek.

Finally at the top of the Salkantay pass. This was a real struggle for me. The climb was three hours straight up. I was starting to think i developed asthma, or my fitness had seriously declined. It was a very dry and dusty road so i put it down to a mild allergy and pressed on.

Brian resting at the pass.

Second camp, with the worst toilet facilities and no improvement on the food. It rained all night so we have gone from freezing cold to cold and wet. That said, it was beautiful here and we were finally off the road and into the mountains.

Day three

All down hill, BRILLIANT. Really beautiful hike down in to near tropical climate. Day three ended at some hot springs where were treated ourselves to a few rum and cokes.

I managed to get quite far ahead on this leg, for a number of reasons but mainly because i wanted to be on my own for a while to enjoy the peace and quiet. Looking back at the rest of the group coming down the hill.

Elly, my tent buddie and new friend. She is from Canada, we are planning to travel for a little while affer the trek.

Day four

This was a long walk along another road. It was dusty and, to be honest a little boring, until the afternoon when we started to see the mountains that surrounded Machu Picchu.

There was a hydro electric station and a few waterfalls along the way. We were trying to work out where the water was actually coming from on this one. There was a large pipe a little further down the road so it is possible that they were pumping that water up!

Oz, short for Oriane Zarb, sat on the side of the train track with a 5 hour wait ahead of her. She spent the night being sick and could go no further until she realised that this was to be her fate. She soon perked up and managed to walk the final leg to Agua Calientes with us.

It was at this point that we all totally lost it with our guide, who was terrible. He was lazy and really didn't want to be there, which was a shame as we were a really nice group, that had fun despite his lack on input.

Machu Picchu mountain.

The dodgiest bridge that i have ever crossed. The individual metal sheets were not secured down, many were rusty and when you stood on them they bent. This is Brian rushing to get to safety, i think i may have run just a little faster!

After walking along the track and through the very narrow tunnels we made it to Aguas Calientes. A pretty little town that was full of people waiting to climb Machu Picchu. By this time i was off my food, which, for everyone that knows me well, is not a good sign. We had to make the decision to walk up at 4am or take the bus at 6am. I desperately wanted to walk but took the bus option.

Day five - Machu Picchu

4.30am we started to queue for the first bus up to Machu Picchu. It seemed crazy as the first bus didn't leave until 6am but by 5am the queue was massive and went all the way up the hill.


Breakfast in the bus queue, we made it onto the first bus and were very near the front of the entrace queue.

Huyna Picchu, Elly and Dan climb this the day before, parts of it were verticle using ladders to get to the top. Again i would loved to have done this but had to give it a miss.

Located high in the Andean Mountains not visible from the valley below, this city has been re-discovered in 1911 by Hiram Bingham. Besides the fascinating Inca architecture and scale of this site, Machu Picchu owns much of its glory to the unique location. Every time you enter the city, you cannot help it but have to gasp. Sometimes called the Lost City of the Incas.

This mysteriousness that shrouds the city makes a visit all the more interesting. No place in South America can compare to this marvelous city that appears to be some sort of mirage appearing and disappearing from a veil of clouds. One can stand up here for hours and watch time pass by.


Now, it really makes very little difference when you enter the ruins, you can turn up all throughout the day but, if you want to climb Wayna Picchu you have to get there early. Only 400 people a day can climb, 200 at 7am and 200 at 10am. We were 6+ in the queue so managed to get to the top and look over the ruins before they were swamped with people.

The one advantage of being there nice and early, no people.


Getting ready to Climb Wayna Picchu. It was cloudy but fingers crossed it would clear for a good view.

Looking down in to the valley, it really was spectacluar.

Nearly there
We made it, from left to right, Elinor, Brian, Elly, Oz, Sara, Dan, Gyri and Arial. We were amoung the first people to the top and it felt great, although we could't see a thing!


Slowely it started to clear, you can see the top of the Machu Picchu mountain.

And here they are, a shot of the ruins from the Wayna Picchu mountain.

Elly and me, taking in the amazing views and feeling happy with our achievement.
Kat and Oz, two of the lovliest friends i have met. They to will continue with us on our travels.


Almoust perfectly clear. You can see the windy road down the side. This was a long and scarey bus ride.

Brian, Dan, Elly and Sara. All great new friends, sharing a happy moment at the top.

Some of the ruins have been rebuilt, here you can see some of the houses. The other walls you see were wither houses or they were build to strengthen the structure.

Machu Picchu moutain behind the ruins.

Great shot, one of my favorites. The ruins the the wayna picchu moutains in the backround.


Same photo but this one is better because i am in it!

And this one is the same but from a sligtly different angle. It was such a special day and i will remeber it always, like most of my trip!


Temple of the three windows - Bingham thought Machu Picchu might prove to be “that mythical place from which the Incas had come when they started out to found Cuzco and to make the beginnings of that great empire which was to embrace a large part of South America.”

The explorer believed that the fact that a temple at Machu Picchu had three large windows - a rare feature in Inca architecture—was evidence of the city’s importance to the Inca.

Intihuatana means "Hitching Post of the Sun". Every major Inca Center had one of these. Until today the meaning of this Stone has not been completely understood. It was most likely some sort of solar observatory or astronomical calendar. During the Winter Solstice, a strange triangular beam of light is said to be formed by this structure. This beam only shows up during that day and only for a few minutes.
It is believed that some sort of ceremony was held here during that day. With ceremonies, sacrifices and rituals everywhere, they certainly took their religion seriously.

Post Machu Picchi, happy hour 4 for 2 pisco sours. There were definately to many drunk but all we had to look forward to was a train back down.


For which we slept for most of the way.

When we got back to Cuzco i went down hill and had to call the doctor. Turned out i had Bronchial Pneumonia. My lungs were full of water, hence why i had huge problems breathing. I had 40 hours in a Peruvian hospital on IV anti biotics, and was very lucky to have visitors. Big thank you to Brian for holding my hand, it was just a little traumatic! and to both Dan and Brian for waiting for me to get out before traveling to Bolivia.

It has taken me a while to post this blog but three weeks later and i am recovered, just about, so no need to worry.

Next stop rest and recovery in Lake Titicaca, the Bolivian side in Copacabana. The groups is growing, we travel on with Jason, Jonathan, Oz and Kat.

Adios amigos

x