Ecuador

From Cartagena i flew down to Quitto in Ecuador. After one cancelled flight and an extremely late arrival i finanally get to the Secret Garden in Quitto, recommended by John and Helen.

The views from the hostel roof garden were amazing you could see all over the city. This did limit my need to explore to much more so because there were a few people, daily, that had been mugged and relived of their valuables. I was on my own at this point and not feeling very brave.

Spread accross a spectacular Andean Valley and flanked by volcanic peaks, Quitto's setting alone is enought to strike you speachless. There are two town, Old and New, the Old town retains the vibrant working class and indigenous character that has always defined it.


View of the Basilico from the roof garden of the Secret Garden.

There was plenty going on in the hostel but the main reason for staying here was, as recommended by J&H, last minute cancellations to the Galapagos Islands. There was an in house travel agent who could not have been more helpful. I Started with a trip to the Otovalo markets where traditionally dressed indigenous people sell handicrafts to hordes of foreigners who pour in every Saturday to get in on the deals.

On the way we stopped off at the Mitad del Mundo. The Hemispheric line runs through Ecuador where they show you some fun mind boggling tricks including testing your own strength and balancing an egg on its bottom end.

On Top of the world on the equator.

It was pretty cool, this is on a flat piece of metal.

Otovalo market, women in traditional dress selling veg.

This was the right time to stock up on some Alpaca goods. It was cold in Quitto, i had left Columbia in 35 degree and Quitto was a crisp 18 degrees. So, i treated myself to a hat, gloves and some enourmous socks.

On the way back we stopped off at Cuicocha. A lake with two sunken volcanes in the centre.

After organising all my tours, flights to the Galapagos and climbing Volcan Cotopaxi, i decided to rest at the Secret Gardens new hostel near the Cotopaxi National park. One to aclimatise and two because it looked amazing. All inclusve family style meals, outdoor activities and peace and quiet.

I met up with Debs, Dan and Brian. Debs soul purpose of going to the lodge was to sit and stare at Giorgio, he worked there and Debs was in love. Dan and Brian, friends from the states, smart, funny and future travel companions. When we got to the Lodge Dan and i walked up to the waterfall. Gum boots on we walked up through the water up muddy sides and took in the fresh air of the mountains. There was lots of card games, sitting by the wood fire chatting and laughing.

Debs and i went horse ridding for the day. I had the slowest horse and spent the whole day playing catch up. We stopped for lunch at a lake and went trout fishing, by hand. It was interesting but not something i will be taking up in the near future.

The next day we arranged to hike up to the glacier of Cotopaxi. I was hiking the next day but i went so that i could aclimatise a little more. The Glacier was at 5000m so this was perfect to see how i coped with the altitide. I was fine and very excited about the big climb the next day.

Sara, Dan, Hannah and Norm at the glacier. Norm is 71 years old, he looks about 50 and is incredible.

This was the start of my big climb. It was cold and the air was thin and this was just the beginning,.

COTOPAXI

This is one of the most awsome things i have done in my life, i will treasure this memory for ever.

Sumit of Volcan Cotopaxi. The highest active volcano in the world, standing at 5897 meters. It was a long hard slog, which started at 1am, but 7 hours later i was at the top on the most perfect day.
During my trip i had plans to climb mountains, my goal is to climb a 6000m mountain so this one is good for a warm up!

Cotopaxi is a stratovolcano in the Andes Mountains, located about 75 kilometres (50 mi) south of Quito, Ecuador, South America. It is the second highest summit in the country, reaching a height of 5,897 m (19,347 ft)Cotopaxi has an almost symmetrical cone that rises from a highland plain of about 3,800 metres (12,500 ft), with a width at its base of about 23 kilometres (14 mi). It has one of the few equatorial glaciers in the world, which starts at the height of 5,000 metres (16,400 ft). The mountain is clearly visible on the skyline from Quito. It is part of the chain of volcanoes around the Pacific plate known as the Pacific Ring of Fire.

This was taken from the Secret Garden lodge, you can see why this would be a perfect place to relax and unwind
Pre departure, Giorgio, Elly Freddie our guide and me.

We hiked up to the Cotopaxi lodge, just below the Glacier. We were spending the night here, i say night but we got up at 12pm to start the climb at 1am. So to pass the hours we played cards, drank tea and rotated around the fire, it was freezing.

Elly, Sara and Giorgio relxing before the big climb. The weather on the hike up to the lodge was horendous and we were concerned that we may not be able to make it due to bad weather. At about 7pm the weather took a turn for the better and the conditons were perfect, we wanted to go there and then but we would not have seen anything as the night was dark, and cold.

We all got pretty close in the night but no amount of body heat was going to keep us warm. I was thankful when 12pm came around so i could get up and get my circulation going.

Wrapped up like a pass the parcel we walked up to the Glacier where we would get our ice climbing gear on. I was pretty slow, i had been holding off a cold, so i got a guide to myself. This was great, i didn't have to feel bad about holding anyone else back. Crampons on, ice pick at the ready we started up the glacier in pitch black, Which really was a good thing because we were walking up a 35 degree slope. It really was just straight up but at no point did i feel tired or that i wasn't going to make it, not making it was not an option.

This is one of my favorite shots. This is from about 5400meter. The sun was rising and you can see the shadow of Cotopaxi .

As we were climing i didn't ask Pablo how long or how far. I knew that the answer to the question would severly impact me and probably not in a positive way. So, i waited until i thought the answer would be one i wanted to hear. I could see the summit, i could see one of the teams coming down from the top, i knew that we had already been walking for a long time, so i asked the question. How much longer? About 2 hours, maybe two and a half. By this time i could see the steepness of the mountain and my heart sank. I still wanted to make it but the sun was up and the snow was going to start melting, i was worried that they would not let me summit because it had got to late.

Still smiling i ate a little drank a little and pressed on. As we got closer to the top it was very narrow and i had to use my ice picks to pull myself up. It was scarey but exciting. I was attached to Pablo but he was a 5ft 2 Ecuadorian, i am a 5ft 11 giant and could easliy have pulled us both off the mountain with one false move.

And here i am, 5897 meters, holding back the tears of happiness and taking in the most beautiful view. It was worth every step, and the blister on my leg where the boots rubbed

There have been more than 50 eruptions of Cotopaxi since 1738. Numerous valleys formed by powerful lahars (mudflows) surround the volcano. This poses a high risk to the local population, their settlements and fields.

Crying at this point, the emoition was just to much! Behind me the Point Farthest From the Center of the Earth - The peak of the volcano Chimborazo in Ecuador at 20,561 feet (6267 m) is farthest from the center of the earth due to its location near the equator and the oblateness of the Earth.
Pablo and Sara, feeling like i am on top of the world.

The climb was over but we still had to get down. This was harder than getting up, although it only took a few hours versus 7 hours to get up there. There were a few tumbles and i spiked myself with my crampons but finally we made it back to the hut. Elly was there to meet me. We were heading back to Quitto to get ready to fly off to the Galapagos, Elly on a first class dive live a board and me, well lets see how that goes, i have a flight and the rest will hopefully fall into place when i get there.

Crazy - sometimes, enjoying life to the full - totally, meeting great people - absolutley

From here i move on with Elly, Dan and Brian, new friends and great company.

much love

Sara