Antarctic updates

for those who check in reguarly.

I am slowly updating the Antarctic trip but the posts will be below day 1. Normally the lastest post is at the top but with this trip i wanted to put it in day order so if you scrole down you will get to the latest entry, day 9.

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Antarctic - Day 1 - Decisions decisions

I had a flight booked from Buenos Aires to Ushaia. I was planning to spend a few days in Ushuaia and then head up into deepest darkest Patagonia for some serious yomping.

I had booked into the hostel, unpacked and was wondering around when i came across an agency for Antarctic tours. The books say that the boats don´t sail until the end of November, love the lonely planet, so i wasn´t planning on looking for a last mintue deal. Out of curiosity i poped in and there was a boat leaving that day.

It looked amazing, Falklands, South Georgia, South Shetlands and the Antarctic Peninsula. With the ship leaving in 4 hours i thought it would be a bargain price and i had it in my head that i was going. When Daniella told me the price i sat with my head in my hands, it was cosiderabley less than the full price but it was still expensive. I left to think about it and called Jen, a friend from the Navy days who had done two trips there on HMS Endurance. Unable to get hold of Jen i call her husband Paul who said ' go, i know what she will say, you have to go' . So with that advice i went back in and booked.

Two hours later and i was on the ship. MV Polar Star http://www.polarstarexpeditions.com/.

I decided to do a day by day account of the trip, i hope you don´t get bored. I wrote a diary, which i will share with you, then i will post some photos and then i will post the ships log. The log was written by Joel Turner, one of the staff memebers, it was really good and a great account of the trip.

This really was the most amazing thing i have done in my life so far and i hope you enjoy me sharing it with you.

The Polar Star

My Diary

I am running round like a headless chicken trying to get a few minute bits and bobs but finally i am checking in.

It was brilliant from the begining. Welcomed, bags taken and shown to my cabin.

I have my own room, sort off, the ships Doctor has all her things in here and pops in and out but i am sure i can live with that.

To start us off we had our welcome briefing and safety brief, we set sail at 6pm, had a life boat drill and then settled down t a 5 course dinner, which was far from the cheap food i have been eating. All the single people ended up together. They all have interesting stories including Jill, all her luggage had been lost in Madrid and had to run around Ushuaia buying enough clothing to get here through the next three weeks. She had just retired as a nurse and this was her gift to herself, a very stressful start but all she did was smile and laugh about it. Everyone was quick to offer her items, which was an early sign of what lovely people we were travelling with. As a backpaker all i had to offer was moisturiser, much needed.

After dinner we went out on to the deck to take in the view. Passed Puerto William, which is the most southern city in the South. We were looking for penguins, but non found. This is day 1 of an amazing 19 days, BRILLIANT!!

Great view of the Ship with the mountains in the backround, oh and the rainbow.

MV Polar Star

Loading the luggage

We have lift off. Bringing in the ropes

kelp and dolphin gulls -As the ship moves off it stirs up the bottom. These birds are collecting muscles, dropping them from a height on the jetty, to break the shells, and eating the flesh

Safety drill. All outside with life jackets waiting for a role call

The Beagle Channel

All ships have to be guided out by a qualified Pilot, this was his ride home attached to the back of the ship.

LOG OF MV POLAR STAR
The Great Antarctic Expedition
4TH – 22ND NOVEMBER 2008

Written by Joel Turner
Edited: John Harrison
Species List: Ursula Tscherter

MV Polar Star
The Great Antarctic Expedition
Captain Jacek Majer
Chief Engineer Kedziora Waclaw
Chief Officer Jozef Wojcik
Second Officer Joseph Banate
Third Officer Jerry Malapad
Hotel Manager Natasha Hanson
Head Chef Brian Hanson
Doctor Judy Forbes

Expedition Leader Ian Shaw
Expedition Staff

Chris Bateman
John Harrison
Gary Kochert
Joyce Kochert
John Sparks
Megan Tierney
Ursula Tscherter
Joel Turner

Tuesday, 4th November - Leaving Ushuaia
Time: 12:00
Latitude: 54° 48.6' S
Longitude: 68°17.9' W
Wind: Variable
Sea Conditions: Smooth (wave height 0.10 – 0.50m)
Pressure: 994 m
Temperature: 6ºC

Ushuaia, somewhat infamous for its changeable weather, held true to that reputation today. Someof us approached the Polar Star leisurely as she lay in dock bathed in bright sunshine, others being forced to hurry aboard amid flurries of snow and cutting winds only minutes later. One thing was for certain however; an air of excitement and anticipation surrounded our ship as her Captain and crew made final preparations for a 19 day expedition that would cover over
3000 nautical miles across some of the worlds’ most unpredictable seas.

Once everyone was aboard and luggage had been distributed to cabins, Ian, our Expedition Leader met us in the observation lounge for an initial briefing. He introduced us to Captain Jacek who welcomed us aboard and led a toast to the voyage. The Expedition Staff then introduced
themselves and gave brief indications of their specialist interests and experience. The First Officer Jozef followed with a safety briefing, highlighting a few important rules which would help ensure a safe trip for all. All briefings concluded in time for us to watch the ship leave the dock just after 18:00, churning up the water as she manoeuvred which created a banquet of small crabs for opportunist seabirds including kelp and dolphin gulls. At 18:30 we had the mandatory lifeboat drill which brought us out onto deck in bright orange life jackets, mustering under the lifeboats as would be expected in an emergency. It was then time to find the dining room and enjoy our first meal onboard.

The last hours of the day were spent navigating the Beagle Channel; so named after the ship which circumnavigated the world between 1831 and 1836 with a certain young man on board, learning his trade and leaving his indelible mark in history: Charles Darwin. The Ushuaia port authority supplied a pilot and boat to navigate us safely through the channel whilst the expedition staff helped to spot wildlife from the bridge, Magellanic penguins and king shags were seen. John Harrison pointed out the southernmost town in the world; Puerto Williams. Originally a naval base founded in 1952, the settlement now has a population of 2000 people including two of the last fluent speakers of the language spoken by the Yámana Canoe Indians. This tribal group was encountered by Darwin during his time in the Beagle Channel. John went on to explain how Gable Island opposite Puerto Williams was central to the creation myth of the Selk’nam Indians. They believe that this small island floated above a huge flood that covered the Earth and as a result all life derives from survivors that took refuge there.

USHUAIA
Ushuaia lies at the extreme tip of South America, on the island of Tierra del Fuego, the land of fire. Its name is derived from a Yaghan word (the language of the nomadic Yámana Canoe Indians) meaning “inner harbour to the westward.”. In 1906 the Argentine state founded a penal institution in Ushuaia largely for hardened criminals. The prisoners were responsible for most of the pre-1940 construction of the town. The prison ceased operation and was incorporated into the Naval Base in 1940. Ushuaia now has a population of about 60,000 permanent residents. They are descendants of English missionaries who stayed on as farmers, of Yugoslavians and
Romanian miners, of sailors from Spain and Italy, who signed off or jumped ship here, of Chileans who came looking for work, of a few Germans, and just a handful of people bearing some blood from the veins of the native Indian population. This is the southernmost city in the world, and it boasts graceful frame houses, selfmade cabins and modern concrete buildings; but they all have the same roofs. There are no tiles here, only metal sheeting that is bolted down. The slopes are now being developed with smart hotels and ski facilities.

A spectacular chain of mountains, the Cerro Martial, rises behind the town, to the north. The ruined forest behind the town was caused by a terrible fire in 1918. The fire began to the west of town and raged eastward, so out of control that the townspeople thought they might have to take to the sea in boats. Doused by a torrential rain, the fire, which had lasted three months, was so intense that even the tiny trees were destroyed and the ground left open to erosion.

The Captain issued a warning that we would likely hit heavy swells as we left the shelter of the
channel and suggested that all possessions should be stowed to limit damage. Doctor Judy spent
time visiting each table at dinner, explaining the different types of anti sea sickness medication she had onboard and offering advice to those who were concerned about the crossing. Those of us who were still awake at 23:00 noticed the point at which the Polar Star entered open water as she began to roll. Even though we were in strong winds, the ship’s movements were lessened as we had a following sea thus were not forced to battle the swells.

Day 2 - At Sea, Atlantic Ocean, heading for the Falklands

Day 2

I woke up this morning at 5.20 and knew it would be beautiful outside so put my coat on over my pyjamas and went out on deck. There were lots of birds flying around, Albatross, Petrels, Cape Pidgeons. It was peaceful watching them glide around me.

Breakfast was a buffet, to much food but i managed to indulge in some of the things i hadn´t seen for a while, Sausages!

Someone is sick with Nobo Virus so everyone is on cleaning stations, if it gets out the whole ship could go down with it.

Three great lectures today, i learnt so much. Natural History and Geology of the Falklands, Introduction to bird life on the Falklands and Digital photography. Despite some of the obvious points in this lecture i still have lots of headless birds.

We are making good time and should get to the Falklands at 1am. When we wake up we will go on land, i can´t wait.

Not to much happened today but it was fun to people watch. The boat is definatley starting to divide. With 94 people you will never meet everyone but there is a younger crowd, which i am pleased about.

The food is excellent. Ended the night in the bar with Ursula, Joel, Chris and John. The staff are all great. Ursula is a whale expert and i can´t wait to hear her lecture. She told me that it may be to early for whale spotting but i am praying that we can just see one.

This trip is amazing, i don´t know how i will sleep tonight but with a few long days ahead i hope it is soon.

Grey-Headed Imm.

Royal Albatross, these birds are so graceful. They were only with us in the early stages, as we head further south we will pick up a a few more types of Albatross.

Pintado, these birds were with us for most of the trip. They spend most of their lives at sea, returning to land to breed. They use the boat for lift as the glide effortlessly

Sunset over the Atlantic, heading for the Falklands

MV POLAR STAR SHIPS LOG

Wednesday, 5th November – At Sea, Atlantic Ocean, heading for the Falklands

Time: 12:00

Latitude: 53° 31.4' S

Longitude: 63°25.4' W

Wind: Force 4 West South West

Sea Conditions: Very Rough (wave height 4 – 6m)

Pressure: 1000 mbTemperature: 6ºC

The ship woke to a fresh, sunny morning: perfect conditions to observe the variety of sea birds that soared around us. The keen spotters among us were treated to fantastic views of black browed albatross, grey headed albatross, giant petrels, and cape petrels (pintados).

Today would be spent entirely at sea with a following wind that pressed us ever closer to our destination, the Falkland Islands. Our first breakfast at sea was slightly challenging due to the irregular rolling of the ship,the rule "one hand for the vessel and one for yourself" was in the back of our minds as we jostled past each other around the buffet; a source of great amusement at times.

Gary Kochert began the expedition’s lecture schedule with From Africa Upside Down, afascinating talk which highlighted the importance of continental drift in the formation of the Falkland Islands we know today. We learnt that the islands were once sandwiched between Africaand East Antarctica within the super continent of Pangea before its break-up; geology and fossil records confirm this theory. His explanation of the natural history and geology of the area left us excited for tomorrow’s landings. After a short break to stretch the legs on deck, John Sparks followed with his lecture A Southern Eden. This photographic introduction to the birdlife of the Falkland Islands gave us pointers in identifying the wildlife we would see as well as explanations of some unique behavioural traits of the different species.

After lunch we convened in the observation lounge for an expedition overview with Ian which explained the IAATO guidelines that are so important in protecting Antarctica from the negative impacts of tourism. We also attended the mandatory Zodiac briefing as our first trip out in the boats would be tomorrow morning. In order to get fully prepared for our first landing we donned extra pairs of socks and selected a pair of rubber boots for the expedition. The rest of the afternoon was spent relaxing in our cabins, the observation lounge or out on deck. After dinner, John Sparks and Gary gave a presentation that aimed to help us get the most out of our cameras during the trip. Questions were answered and camera features were explained, a very useful session to get us readyfor taking some wonderful photos.

Day 3 - New Island and West Point Island, West Falklands

We arrived at the Falkland Islands at about 1am si everyone managed to get some sleep as we were at anchor.

New Island is a national park owned by two families. We walked up to the cliffs to see hundred of breeding birds. Black browed Albatross, Rockhopper penguins and Blue-eyes shags, many of them sitting on eggs. Wathing the birds behavious was facinating. It was also nice to get off the ship and have a walk and some fresh air.

Back to the ship for lunch whilst we travelled 3 hours south to West point. Here we had a long hike to see more nesting birds. I was amazed how unphased they were by us, we had to be at least 5 meters away but there was 94 of us in red jackets. I got a gret photo of an Albatross turning her egg. I was concentrating so much on the egg that most of the shots are without a head!

On the way back the Napiers, who own the land, layed on a massive afternoon tea. China cups, English tea and coffee and walnut cake, plus much much more.

On the way back to the ship there were some commerson dolphins in the harbour, playing around in the bow of the zodiacs.

Back on board and we are heading for Stanley. The weather has been forecast as galeforce storms straight on the nose so it could be a rough night.

After the briefing we watched the Blue Planet, it made me feel very excited about the days ahead, Very soon we will be seeing this for ourselves..

Megan, the ships biologist, tangled up in the giant sea kelp

The island, the small white building is a school, there are only two children on the role call.

A ship wreck in the bay of New Island. The weather can get really bad here. There were a few yachts moored in the harbour with a line on both sides attaching them to the mainland.

Here is the cliff face where it all happens. You have the clumbsy Albatross crash landing on the penguins, who are not afraid to show their annoyance.

This area at New Island is unique. There are many birds that share this breeding site, which is uncommon in most other areas. Here you have a Blue eye-shags and a Rockhopper penguins finghting of nest making material

Rockhopper penguin

A little over exposed but i like it. The wing span on these magnificent birds can be up to 10ft

Blackbrowed Albatross, these bird pair up for life but enjoy renewing their vows annually with a few dance moves and a lots of noise. If a breeding pair fail to have a chick then they will leave to find another partner.

The Albatross travels great distances to find food. They feed and forage for up to 300 miles. Once the babies are ready to leave the nest they head towards South Africa for a few years, to feed, and will return by about 5 years to breed.

Caracaras, known locally as Johnny Rooks

Your carriage awaits

Pulling up on the Zodiac

Sara at West Point, Falklands.

A turkey Vulture

Kelp Geese, pair up for life. The female is dark for camouflage and the male is white to attract the females.

I love this picture. I always thought the beak was just the beak but look at the bird on the left. The beak goes right back past the eye. These birds have massive mouths for swallowing squid and decent sized fish.

A glimpse of this Black browed albatross´egg.

This young landy had three eggs to sit on. She was struggling to keep them all tucked in, it was never going to happen. The skuas will move in soon.

Rockhopper penguin, up close and personal.

New friendships forming. Jules, Chris, Celia and Sara about to go for afternoon tea.

Affternoon tea at the Napiers´ They started making tea for the visiting ships years ago and it became a tradition. Again, things that i haven´t had for a long time so i made the most of it.

On the way back to the boat there was a pod of Commerson dolpins playing with the Zodiacs

Anchors up up and away, Next stop Stanely

MV POLAR STAR SHIPS LOG

Thursday 6th November - New Island and West Point Island, West Falklands

Time: 12:00

Latitude: 51° 44.0' S

Longitude: 61°16.8' W

Wind: Force 3 North East

Sea Conditions: Smooth (wave height 0.10 – 0.50m)

Pressure: 1010 mb

Temperature: 10ºC

The Polar Star anchored in Ship Harbour, New Island at 01:00 this morning which gave us all a welcome break from the roll of the ship that had been with us since leaving the Beagle Channel.We woke refreshed and bright sunshine gave beautiful early morning views of New Island, the most remote of all the Falkland Islands. They were so named after Viscount Falkland of the Admiralty by the first man to land on the islands, John Strong; Captain of the 38-gun privateer Welfare. Historically a refuge and winter home for North American whaling ships, the island is now managed as an important nature reserve by Falklands Conservation. Composed largely of 600 million year old quartz sandstone, New Island has an interesting geological cross-section. Due totilting of the strata over time, the eastern shores can be seen as sandy bays and natural harbours whereas the island rises dramatically to towering cliffs at the western extent.

After breakfast Ian ordered five Zodiac boats to be lowered onto the calm water and a scout boatwas sent to prepare the landing. When all was ready we took our first trip down the gangway and into the rubber boats that would be our water taxis for the duration of the expedition. The Zodiac ride took us into a cove where the former mines weeper Protector lay; a remnant of difficult times,and finally dropped us at a small jetty. Kelp geese were feeding along the shore, the white males contrasting strongly with the darker females and some of us were lucky enough to see the wild rabbits that inhabit this area. At the head of the beach was a small museum room whose most macabre exhibit was a large iron pot, recovered from the penguin colony, which was likely used to render down the birds for oil.This ‘industry’ was soon howled out of existence by the general public, for its cruelty. A short hike led by John Sparks took us to a recess in the cliff on the opposite coast which is exploited by colonies of intermingled seabirds. Black-browed albatrosses, rockhopper penguins and blue-eyed shags all share the steep cliffs. Our presence seemed not to affect the birds at all; there are no natural land predators since the Falkland Island fox was exterminated in the nineteenth century so they need not fear attack. The weather was so beautiful and the colonies so fascinating that calls for the last Zodiac were met with disappointment from many. We walked back across the island and made our way back to the shipfor a spot of well earned lunch. While we ate the ship’s anchor was hauled and we began to motoraway from the bay.

Three hours later the Captain informed Ian that we had reached our next destination, West Point Island, in the North West corner of the Falklands group and soon Zodiacs were back in the water. A short ride brought us into a sheltered bay with a small jetty. The owners of the islands and our hosts for the afternoon, Roddy and Lily Napier, once farmed sheep on the hills here but now are involved in offering visitors a unique Falklands experience. A long hike, or a lift in a vintage Land Rover, took us across the top of the island where we saw upland geese closely watching over their light grey chicks, all less than 2 weeks of age. The track took us to the Devil’s Nose, a narrow headland of limestone which is home to another bird colony, predominately black-browed albatrosses and rockhopper penguins. From the shelter of the tussac grass, we were able to observe the birds at close quarters without stressing them. The two are very tolerant of each other, except when a crash-landing albatross falls into a rockhopper’s nest-space; they are certainly not afraid to stand up and defend it.

On our return from the colony, there was a beautiful cup of English tea with home baked cakes waiting for us at the Napiers’ bungalow; snug in the shelter of the leaning cypresses (Cupressusmacrocarpus), introduced trees which survive in conditions so tough that there are no native tree species. Several striated caracaras (known locally as Johnny Rooks) hopped around us as we neared the house, waiting for the chance to take off with a glove or hat from an unsuspecting passer by. After we had had our fill, we thanked our hosts and hopped back into Zodiacs bound forthe ship. The trip back was extraordinary as we were treated to a small group of Commerson’s dolphins riding in our wake and surfing alongside the boats. The Zodiac drivers spent a little time driving around the bay to give an opportunity to see these graceful creatures in the water. These particular dolphins are well known for their interaction with boats, and their constant seeking outof our Zodiacs proved that they were enjoying playing with us.

During recap and briefing, which had been moved to after diner thanks to our late return to the ship, Chris showed us some videos that he had taken during our dolphin encounter and gave some additional information on them. John Sparks gave a short talk about the albatrosses that we had been privileged to see throughout the day, complimented by his own fantastic photos. The session was brought to a close by John Harrison and his history of the SS Great Britain, the Falkland’s most famous wreck. When built, it was the largest and most innovative ship in the world. After along career it acted as a store for the Falkland Island Company before being towed back to the dock where it was built in Bristol in 1970.

After a long day many of us returned to our cabins for an early night, others chose to end the evening by watching the BBC Blue Planet film ‘The Seasonal Seas’ which focuses on the diversity of life found in the rich cold waters of the world. Those who did pop their head round the door of the Polar Bar would have found it empty from 22:00 onwards, a sure sign of a tiring day.

Day 4- Stanley

Day 4

Last night was rough, Luckily i was rocking from head to toe, if was was left to right i would have been on the floor as sick as a dog.

Boarded the Zodoacs and headed into Stanely for what we thought was a history tour. It was dissapointing, it was more of a local tour. I certainly learnt alot about the guide, including her fastest time skinning a cow, how much the house has increased in value and de sons vital credentials. We finnished at the museum, which was very interesting. There are lots of ship wrecks. It was a snug, secluded harbour - perfect for sailing vessels to anchor.

We had a pub lunch and a few pints of cider and then wandered around the town buying souvenirs

Back to the ship for happy hour, dinner and a movie - In the freezer, David Attenborogh. Finnished up in the bar, i am really enjoying meeting all these new people, it is facinating. Eveyone has a story on why they are here. Sadly many of them planned to be here with a loved one, in many cases they had passed away with cancer so there were many people here on there own. I was happy to share this experience with them all.

I also realised today that my life has gone full cirle. I don´t have regrets in life but if i was to have one it would be about 10 years ago. I was working with the Navy but not in the branch that i applied for. I was waiting for a place with the hydrogrophers, it was a small branch so i was waiting for someone to reitire or die. I had been on HMS Endurance, the Antarctic survey ship, this is one of the many homes to the hydrogrophers and my aim was to get back down to the ice. I got tired of waiting and resigned for another job. Two days later they offered me a place and it was an extremely tough decision. I chose to leave. 10 Years later i am here, not to chip and paint, grease and scrub, but to enjoy and be shown the wonders of the Antarctic with a field of experts. This trip has had my brain running wild. Having the experience i always longed for has now opened up my sights to new beginings.

Heading for South Georgia, 2 days of rough sea.

One of the many ship wrecks. Kelp Geese out for a strole with the family.

The mines are sucked further down by the peat, they are going to be virtually impossible to clear so this land will remain a no go area.

Which way is home and how far is it......

It was a few days before remeberance Sunday and there were poppys everyewhere. I purchased mine and wore it with pride as we walked around this very historical island

Here is the mast, i will be keen to see the rest of the ship when i return.

This is a locals garden. He finds whale bones and puts them back together. Very big anti whaling message that i think we shouls all support.

Very interesting museum. There was a letter displayed from a young Argentinian soldier to a local lady. He was asking her for food and chocolate. It highlighted how badly these young men were treated.

Would be rude not to. Julie, Sara, Julie and Michael enjoying a nice pint of cider in a English pub with banger and mash. yum!

MV POLAR STAR SHIPS LOG

Friday 7th November - Stanley

Time: 12:00

Longitude: 57°51.1' W

Wind: Force 6 North West

Sea Conditions: Moderate (wave height 1.25 – 2.50m)

Pressure: 1004 mb

Temperature: 10ºC

We arrived at anchor at 08:00 off the Stanley shoreline, the skies were blue and it was clear that we would have good weather for our landing. This said, the expedition team still advised us to wear foul weather clothes for the Zodiac crossing to the harbour as a strong breeze (6 on theBeaufort scale) was creating choppy sea conditions in the bay. The Zodiac drivers did their best to avoid soaking us all on the approach but several rogue waves did give us the opportunity to test the temperature of the water.

The city of Port Stanley was established in the 1840s and now has a population of 2,200 people. Ithas a distinctly English feel; the red phone box standing outside the visitors centre and the availability of quality tea are testaments to that historic link. Two excursions had been planned for the morning, one was a three hour nature trip which was predominantly on foot and the other, a coach based guided tour of the highlights of Stanley. We had signed up to our chosen trips at the briefing yesterday and jumped on the appropriate transport when it arrived at 10am. While the trips were running,the Zodiac Drivers were busy ferrying fresh supplies from shore to the ship. The sea conditions had taken a turn for the worse and those who retuned to the Polar Star for lunch were treated to some exciting moments at the gangway thanks to gale force winds whipping across the harbour, great practise for the swells of South Georgia. The ship also loaded supplies bound for Port Lockroy on the Antarctic Peninsula which we will transport down there and deliver during our landing at the British base. Many of us chose to eat our lunch in Stanley at one of the many restaurants and pubs; with a last Zodiac time of 16:00 we had time enough to explore the city. The Expedition Staff had recommended several places of interest: the southern most Anglican Cathedral in the world with its blue whale jaw bonearch marking the entrance to the churchyard, the small yet fascinating Stanley museum, full of memorabilia about the maritime, farming and military history of the islands, and the Post Office and Philatelic bureau. It was also recommended to spare a little time to walk along the waterfront to see the historic wrecks, especially the SS Great Britain’s mizzen (back) mast left behind whilethe rest of the ship was towed back to England.

Back onboard, Happy Hour got underway at 17:30 which led into recap and briefing where questions that had arisen during the day were answered. After dinner, Episode 1 of the BBC series Life in the Freezer was shown in the observation lounge.